Across the border to rhinos and elephants

The border-crossing administration was relatively painless both in SA and in Botswana although there was a long queue to pay the road fees which came through at the extortion rate of R1.43 to the Botswana Pula!

 Crossing the Limpopo River at Martin's Drift into Botswana

 Rudyard Kipling wrote: 'Go to the banks of the great grey-green, greasy Limpopo River, all set about with fever-trees, and find out.'

A Zimbabwean couple were going through the process of importing a Beagle puppy from SA to Zim, but cutting across Botswana as the shorter route to Bulawayo.  According to the Bots official, the couple also needed a SADC certificate to allow “inter-zonal” transfer through the country., which they didn't have.  Both the official and the husband were very courteous to each other and, without any bribes, the matter was resolved, officials accepted the SA and Zim documentation and puppy “passport” and the puppy allowed to travel on to its new home through Botswana.

I stopped off at a petrol station in Palapye to draw some Pula from a First National Bank ATM and instantly my cellphone buzzed. The FNB South Africa “In-Contact” service notified me of my transaction (felt like being back in SA) and what the Rands deducted from my account were (Rate of exchange R1.11 to a Pula).

A not-too-small woman sitting next to the ATM waiting for a lift to somewhere asked if she could buy my jeans.  I’m not the smallest girl around. . .   Did she think I was going to step out of them and sell them on the station forecourt??

Finally I got to Khama Rhino Sanctuary and my huge campsite to pitch my tent, opting not to put up the flysheet as it was only for one night.  Fortunately the roof vents can be opened and closed from the inside and there was not a cloud in the sky so I took the chance. I doubt the roof vents will be waterproof in the rain though without the flysheet.

My huge campsite!

KRS is a lovely little reserve, situated on Kalahari Sandveld,  a low-slung BMW is not going to be fun to drive here. I read Sandveld and when I got there, I was surprised at the sand - what a blonde moment!!

The rhino are protected by the Botswana Defence Force there is a huge radio/cellphone mast situtated in the camp but it is not too detracting.  I remember how poor the ablutions were in Moremi and Chobe on another camping trip I did with friends and sadly the ablutions here weren’t great either.

Different vegetation at Khama Rhino Sanctuary

So true!!!

I went for a short game drive which turned into a couple of hours as I was having such a good time birding and I saw so much.  After getting tips from the guys I met in Kruger, I made a proper fire – courtesy lots of firelighters – and enjoyed my wine and dinner.  There were some young people from Gaborone who were loudly playing Trivial Pursuit and listening to the iPod which was quite annoying, but maybe I’m just becoming an “old fart”.

The next day I packed up and headed for Elephant Sands which is about 50kms north of the Pans.  I took a short cut across some gravel road to join the A1 closer to Francistown. 

Traffic enroute to Francistown, Botswana

It still was quite a long day and I was hot and tired after pitching my tent (with flysheet).  A group of SA off-road bikers and their crew (all guys) arrived shortly before sunset and they were having a whale of a time.  I was falling asleep on my feet and didn’t bother to go to the bar or for dinner.  Hitting the pillow, I didn’t hear a thing until a hyena started calling in the darkest hours.  Shortly thereafter I heard the screaming angry trumpeting of an elephant which silenced the hyena.  I never heard another thing until the bikers and crew left at sunrise.

I then took a day off from driving and have lazed around Elephant Sands and doing a bit of housekeeping and reading and bird-watching. I didn't see any ellies.

Camping at Elephant Sands

Open air ablutions at Elephant Sands

The drive up to Kasane was marred by a speeding fine!!! Damn I never get them for exceeding 120km and this time I got a P300 fine for doing 70km/h in an extremely long 60km/h zone outside a village called Pandamatenga. I tried to pay it at the Kasane Police Station this morning (Saturday) but was told to come back "next week Monday".  When I said I wouldn't be here, but could I get someone local to do so on my behalf, I got a very disbelieving "Is it someone you can trust?"

When I arrived in Kasane I met up with Val and KJ Monkeys On the Roof and I finally got to meet Karen Border Town Notes and Tiennie Under The Botswana Sky.  This blogpost is coming to you courtesy of WiFi from their business - Kasane Computers.

PS I trust Karen to pay over my fine money to the Police (heeheehee)

Till next time . . .