The boat, the chopper and the very Vic Falls

I must admit to being a bit wary of the road to Victoria Falls.  I’d heard stories of road-blocks and spot fines for the most ridiculous reasons, including ‘your car is too dirty’.  The officials at the Zimbabwe border post were friendly and surprised to find a South African woman travelling on her own to Zim.  “Not many South Africans travel on their own to Zimbabwe anymore, especially woman”, the official commented.  “Will I not be safe then?” I asked.  “No it is fine now.” was the reply. 

Still smarting from my Botswana speeding fine, I crawled along the road to Vic Falls and 2km outside the town, I passed a speed trap manned by three traffic officers and no vehicle.  I suppose they would catch up with disappearing speedsters somewhere, sometime.

I checked into the Victoria Falls Rest Camp and decided to stay in a chalet rather than camp (must be getting soft after Elephant Valley Lodge!).  The camp has an old section and a newer section.  I use the term loosely.  The camp and the town itself is understandably rundown but the people are friendly and the hawkers badger you with some humour (in my case they were Monkey and Clever wanting to trade carved animals for clothing).

I met up with Munya who’d come down to SA to work with us on Soccer World Cup and we went off to catch up on the lawns of The Victoria Falls Hotel, an awfully British colonial hotel which must get up Robert Mugabe’s nose.

I had a 05h30 start the following day and Munya collected me to go on a sunrise cruise.  I must say Victoria Falls Anytime (the company he works for) is the only Tour Operator to offer a sunrise cruise on the Zambezi and I’m sure these pictures speak for themselves.

Mackson, the Captain

A sunrise cruise knocks spots off a sunset cruise in my book. I was especially moved by the fact we were the only boat at that time of day on the might Zambezi and I was the only guest – pure heaven!  There is something soul-nourishing in drifting down a magnificent river listening to nature with background noise from Nature’s wonder, Mosi-oa-Tunya (the smoke that thunders) or Victoria Falls.

I was very excited to find some of ‘lifers’ for my birdlist and to once again see an elusive African Finfoot, this time running along the riverbank.

After the cruise, I took myself off to visit the Falls. WOW, WOW, WOW.  Awesome. Stunned. Blew my mind.  I don’t think I have ever been close to something so powerful.  The energy was phenomenal. So much water drops down the cliff with such force it catapults the rain/spray twice the distance back into the air.

Pictures speak a thousand words – in this case pictures are also speechless.

I walked around for a couple of hours trying to take it all in.  I could visit the Falls again and again and look forward to making it sooner rather than later.

Then I was off to the Lion Encounter, kindly arranged for me by Victoria Falls Anytime.  I'm not a great believer in things like elephant-back rides or lion walks, but I decided to go and experience it.

Whilst it was fabulous to touch 16-month old lions and walk in the bush with them, there is something that jars me about it all.  I got irritated with the handlers shaking branches and kicking stones to make them open their eyes or sit up for everyone's "Kodak moments".  Let the animals sleep if you've just fed them - it's what lions do best.

Later that evening, Munya collected me to take me to his home to meet his delightful wife Taurai and to enjoy a great home-cooked meal with much needed fresh veggies.  (Thanks again Taurai)

Sadly I was only spending two nights in Vic Falls and my time was ending, but not before I took the “Flight of Angels” in a helicopter over the magnificent Falls.

Munya and the staff of Victoria Falls Anytime were great. Munya I appreciate all the efforts you went to, to show me the town you live in and to enjoy the activities – thanks.  Next time I’ll make enough time to do the bungee jump and the white water rafting.

It’s back off to Kasane for a night or two and then Namibia beckons.

Till next time . . .

Once again this blogpost comes courtesy of the generous Karen and Tiennie of Kasane Computers