Etosha (1)

I overnighted at Toshari Lodge outside Etosha National Park's Andersson Gate.  Super accommodation, good dinner and breakfast - ready to take on camping again.

I arrived at Okaukeujo Camp and checked in for two nights (they allocate your campsite).  I arrived at the campsite - not a tree in sight.  No shade.  I pitched my tent in my allocated "bay" - some are set up like car bays - and immediately decided it was going to be cooler in my LSP so I headed for the great Etosha.

What can I say.

It is miles and miles and miles of seemingly nothing, but there are tracks everywhere

I wonder where these tracks go?

I felt almost insignificant when got to a waterhole on the edge of Etosha Pan.  There is something about the harsh bright bare landscape that got to me.  I can't explain it.  It is something I wish every one of you who reads this could experience.

As it got cooler I headed back to my campsite and now the place was humming with people all setting up for the night.   I wandered over to the waterhole at the camp.

Hunger struck and I went back to make dinner.  Well I thought I'd landed in the twilight zone!  On the one side were a group of tourists (Spanish I think) and their guides and attendants had a lovely setup until they brought out the music.  Music in places like campsites is a no-no in my books and Kaapse Klopse music nearly sent me over the top.

At this point no-one was setting up camp on the other side and the camp gates were closed for the night.  Okay I'll survive.  I was so wrong.  Ten minutes later a small bus with a loaded trailer arrives - Zambezi Express blazoned all over the front and about twenty teenagers and five adults spill out of the vehicle. Apparently a group of locals from Katima Mulilo.

I hastily finished cooking my Chicken Madras and Rice (yes the ever easy cook-in-sauce stuff) and beat a path to the now floodlit waterhole, plenty wine in hand.

It's the first time I've experienced a fully fledged floolit waterhole (three massive lights - orangey yellowy colour which clearly does not upset the animals) and I was treated to black rhinos (don't know when last I saw one of these more secretive species), giraffes, gemsbok and elephants all coming to quench thirsts.  It was sheer pleasure for me.

Eventually I was tired enough for sleep and when my head hit the pillow, the kids were making a racket.  There were endless threats from the adults about noise and eventually I fell asleep.  I woke very early the next morning and got out on the roads gameviewing before the kids got up.  When I got back at 11 everyone was gone, the campsites almost deserted and the staff getting ready for the next round of campers.

The second night brought "normal' campers and it was pleasant in the camp.  I went to the waterhole and WOW WOW WOW - six black rhinos were there and three males were having an all-night session of parry-and-thrust.  When I left four hours later, they were still at it.  I was also treated to a breeding herd of around 70 ellies coming to drink.  It was spectacular and I'm very sorry I don't have any pictures that will do this justice.  I'll keep reliving it in my mind.

I loved the way the ellie arrives at the waterhole in 'Elephant Grey'

and leaves with a whitewash 'White Elephant' covering

I've updated my FaceBook album so there are more pics there.

I'm moving on to Halali Camp, till next time. . . .